Tuesday, May 20, 2008

Doucheburger

Its creators admit it is the ultimate in decadence: a $175 hamburger. Another description is extravagant waste of money.

The Wall Street Burger Shoppe just raised its price from $150 to assure its designation as the costliest burger in the city as determined by Pocket Change, an online newsletter about the most expensive things in New York for arrogant, pompous dickbags who only care about what something exists as a measure of their own worth.

"Wall Street has good days and bad days. We wanted to have the everyday burger (for $4) ... and then something special if you really have a good day on Wall Street," said co-owner Heather Tierney, whom I wish a barren womb for her willingness to cater to an already over-indulged crowd. The burger, created by chef and co-owner Kevin O'Connell, seeks to justify its price with a Kobe beef patty, lots of black truffles, seared foie gras, aged Gruyere cheese, wild mushrooms and flecks of gold leaf on a brioche bun. I hope a grease fire disfigures him as justice for making one of these insipid meals.

The eatery sells 20 or 25 per month in the fine dining room upstairs versus hundreds of $4 burgers each day at the diner counter downstairs. That's two dozen people a month who should be punched in the throat mid-meal.

Pocket Change previously designated the double truffle burger at Daniel Boulud's DB Bistro Moderne as the most expensive at $120, and the Burger Shoppe set out to top that, because being the most decadent is clearly a badge of honor for narcissists. Boulud's creation -- available only during black truffle season from December to March -- rose to $150 this past season, so the Burger Shoppe raised its price on Monday to $175.

"Our burger is not about the price," said Georgette Farkas, a Boulud spokeswoman. "If you are making something concerned only about the price, you are off in the wrong direction". Well played, Farkas! If that's really the case, then why bother to offer it with those overpriced mushrooms at the still staggering cost of $32? So what if it has a ground sirloin patty stuffed with red wine braised short ribs - you're not justifying it.

O'Connell said the Burger Shoppe was "finding the ultimate expression of each one of the ingredients. The concept was like a mushroom-bacon-Swiss cheese burger, which is my favorite sort of burger." I think I could have made you one for 1/10th the price. The burger comes with golden truffle mayonnaise, Belgian-style fries and a mixed greens and tomato salad. O'Connell pairs the dish with many fine wines, a lager or a toasted brown beer, to add to the snooty superiority that comes from not only ordering such a meal, but in offering it at all.

Seriously, if you pay close to two bills for a burger, you're a fucking asshole.

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